We invented fire. We roasted meats. We made pots. We cooked soup. That's the story of culinary evolution in a nutshell. It hasn't got much further, really, bar the odd soufflé, and why should it? For the apex of culinary achievement, you really need look no further than a top-notch soup.
Soup's real strength is our enduring love for it. Unlike some more recherché culinary inventions, we never tire of it. On a cold winter'sday, soup lifts the spirits, comforts, warms. It soothes us when we're ill and keeps us going when we're broke. It raises expectations at the beginning of a meal or– with the addition of that other unshakable staple, good bread – itcan be the meal.
We are an island afloat on a sea ofsoup, north to south, from Scotland's wonderful cullen skink tothe brown Windsor that once appeared on every English menu. I'm sure one reason we love soups so much is because they are so well suited to our blustery climate and appeal to our innate sense of thrift. So today I'm revisiting, and rediscovering, some old favourites: Blighty's best broths, a parson's pleasure of potage. And I hope you'llagree that our finest whistle-wetters hold their own against anybouillabaisse, caldo verde, bisqueor borscht.
Some of the great soups have beeneked from the cheapest of offcuts, the readiest of roots, the humblest of leftovers. Transported to deliciousness by a long, slow simmer in stock or water, they become comforting or cleansing, thick and satisfying or elegant and spare. And with soup there need never be waste. Many of them are even better the next day and any leftovers can be revamped with another handful of this or that – orfrozen for near-instant comfort ata later date.
I reckon a great soup has the power to lift my mood more than any other dish. It's partly because you can't eat a hot soup quickly – orat least you'd be a fool to try. Soup encourages you to slow down,sip, sup, savour, linger a little longer.And if that's not the perfect recipe for a great weekend, I don't know what is.
London particular
The delightful name of this thick pea and ham soup comes from the peasouper fogs that used to engulf London until the late 1950s. Traditionally made with split green or yellow peas, which require soaking overnight, you can speed upthe cooking time if you like by making it with no-soak green lentils instead – it will taste just as good. Serves six to eight.
For the ham
1 smoked ham hock, soaked overnight in cold water
1 onion, peeled and halved
1 stick celery, roughly chopped (reserve the leaves for garnishing)
8 black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
2-3 sprigs fresh thyme
1 handful parsley stalks
For the soup
200g green split peas, soaked overnight in cold water (or 200g green lentils)
40g butter
1 onion, diced
1.8 litre ham stock from cooking theham
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Some leftover cooked boiled ham
Celery or lovage leaves
Drain and rinse the soaked ham hock and put it into a large saucepan along with the onion, celery, peppercorns, bay leaf, thyme and parsley stalks. Cover with cold water, bring to a boil and simmer, partially covered, for two to two anda half hours, until tender. Leave to cool in the liquid, then remove and strain the stock through a sieve into a bowl. Reserve the stock for making the soup, and shred the meat into bite-sized chunks. Taste the stock: if it's too salty, let it down with a bit of water.
Rinse the soaked peas until the water runs clear (if you're using lentils, pick over them and rinse).
Melt the butter in a large saucepan over a medium-low heat and sweat the onion until soft and translucent. Add the peas (or lentils) and the stock, bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a simmer and skim off any scum. Simmer until the peas (or lentils) are very soft, between 20-45 minutes. Blitz about three-quarters of the soup in a blender until smooth, adding a little more stock ifit's too thick. Season to taste. Return to the saucepan with the unblended soup, add some of the ham and warm through. Serve in warmed bowls, with some celery or lovage leaves scattered over the top.
Oxtail soup
Though this is very simple to make, you need to start cooking the soup the day before you want to serve it, so you can remove the layer of fat from the stock once it's cooled. Serves eight.
70g butter
1.5kg oxtail, cut into pieces and trimmed of excess fat
2 celery stalks, sliced
1 onion, stuck with 3 cloves
2 carrots, sliced
1 small turnip, peeled, quartered and sliced
1 leek, roughly chopped
1 bouquet garni (made up of a bay leaf, a couple of sprigs of thyme andthree or four parsley stalks tied together with kitchen string)
10 black peppercorns
300ml red wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
60-80ml sherry
3 tbsp finely chopped parsley
Warm the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat and brown the oxtail pieces, in batches if necessary, until browned on all sides. Remove from the pan, set aside and sweat the vegetables in the meat juices forfive minutes.
Return the meat to the pan, along with the bouquet garni, peppercorns, wine and one and ahalf to two litres of water. Season, bring to a boil and simmer, covered, until themeat is very tender and just about falling off the bones – about three to four hours.
Strain the liquid into a bowl, cool and refrigerate. Discard the veg, peppercorns and bouquet garni. Pull the meat from the bones, discarding any skin and fat. Place in a bowl, season and refrigerate.
Next day, remove the solid layer offat that will have formed onthe top of the stock, pour the stock intoa pan, add the meat and bring just to a simmer. Adjust the seasoning to taste, add the sherry and simmer very gently for five minutes. Serve in warmed bowls, scattered with parsley.
Mulligatawny
The name of this soup comes from the Tamil for "pepper water", an appropriate name for a mildly spicy soup introduced to British households by southern Indian cooks during the days of the Raj. Serves six.
80g basmati rice
50g butter
3 onions, finely chopped
4 tbsp plain flour
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 rabbit (or chicken), jointed
1.5 litres chicken or vegetable stock
100g creamed coconut
1-2 tbsp curry powder, depending onstrength and taste
2 tbsp concentrated tomato purée
½ lemon, juiced
Cream and coriander leaves, to serve (optional)
Soak the rice in a bowl of cold water while you prepare the rest.
Warm half the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed frying pan and sweat the onions until soft and translucent, about 15 minutes. Transfer them to a large saucepan and melt the rest of the butter in the frying pan. Season the flour with salt and pepper, then dust the rabbit with the seasoned flour, shaking off any excess, and brown the meat on all sides. Put the pieces into the saucepan with the onions.
Pour a litre of stock over the meat, add the coconut, bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer gently for an hour. Remove the meat from the bones, shred it into bite-sized pieces and return to the broth. Add more stock to the pan, along with the curry powder and tomato purée. Add the rice and simmer until tender, about 20 minutes. Just before serving, add the lemon juice. Serve in warmed bowls, with a swirl of cream and coriander sprinkled over the top if you like.
co*ck-a-leekie
Beef is sometimes added to this famous Scottish soup, along with thechicken – add about 700g stewing beef, if you like – though Iprefer the clearer, more refreshing broth that comes from using chickenon its own. Serves eight, with plenty of moist chicken left over for salads and sandwiches for another day.
About 20 prunes
1 chicken, about 1.25kg
1.5kg leeks, trimmed
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Soak the prunes in hot water or tea for a few hours, then drain and remove the stones.
Put the chicken breast-side down in alarge casserole and pour in enoughwater to cover. Bring to agentle simmer and carefully skimoff the scum that rises to the top. Simmer gently for 30 minutes – it'simportant to simmer gently, or the chicken will be tough.
Cut half of the leeks in half lengthways and tie into a bundle using kitchen string. Add to the pot with a half-teaspoon of salt and continue to simmer for a further hour and a half. Twenty minutes before the end of the cooking time, add the prunes. Shred the remaining leeks finely, add these to the pot and simmer for five to 10 minutes.
Scoop out the bundle of leeks andthe chicken. Taste the broth andadjust the seasoning. Remove the skin from the chicken, shred themeat into large pieces and serve in warmed bowls with the broth, shredded leeks and prunes spooned over the top.
